Thursday, February 17, 2011

Clogged Drains No More

A clogged drain, especially a clogged toilet, can be such a drag. But you don’t need to immediately call in a professional. There are a few ways to get rid of the clog on your own first. Listen up!

Start with the plumber’s best friend – a plunger. I am assuming most of us know how to use one but if not, here’s how to be the most effective with one. Since toilet clogs most often occur at the top of the tight, up-curving trap that’s part of the fixture, a plunger can often do the trick. Place the plunger end on top of the drain, give it a few pushes and then pull back. Hopefully this will unclog it. However, more often than not, a toilet clog requires a little more work.

This brings us next to a closet auger. You can find these at a hardware store for about $15 to $40 and they are specifically designed for snaking out drains. Place the auger end into the bowl with its bent tip aiming up. Now, hold the tool shaft steady as you crank and push down on the handle. You should be able to feel the cable snake its way up and through the trap. Continue cranking until you’ve dispensed the entire cable. This should be about three feet. Retrieve the cable by simultaneously cranking and pulling up. Flush the toilet to clear out the drainpipe. If it’s still not draining, run the auger through the trap twice more: once up the left side of the trap, then again up the right side. This should now clear any debris blocking the drain.

If this still doesn’t work and you’re toilet still isn’t flushing, contact a professional plumber. Anymore work done by yourself may end up damaging the drain, costing you more.

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

How to Fix a Leaky Faucet, Part 1

When it comes to plumbing problems, a simple thing like a leaky faucet can be such a pain. Its constant dripping noise can keep you up at night. In the next few posts, I will describe how to fix it:

Before you start be sure to shut off the water under the sink, close the sink drain and cover it with a rag to catch dropped parts. You’ll also want to tape the jaws of your wrench with a layer of duct tape to avoid scratching the fixture. It may also be a good idea to find a place to lay out parts in the order of their removal as well as get some distilled white vinegar and a soft scouring pad to remove mineral deposits on faucet parts.

There are four types of faucets. (If you are unsure as to which one you have, you can quickly Google the terms for pictures.) I will describe how to fix each in the next few blog posts. Let’s start with your standard compression faucet.

Compression Faucets
A leaky compression faucet is the result of faulty seat washers. You can easily replace them. Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the handle screw, pull off the handle and, using a crescent wrench, unscrew the packing nut. Unscrew the stem, then remove and replace the seat washer held in place by a brass screw. You’ll then want to coat the washers with a nontoxic, heat-proof plumber’s grease. Remove the stem for the packing nut and replace the o-ring. Make sure to get the correct size of o-ring, as they range from 3/8 – 5/8 inch. Coat the new o-ring with the plumber’s grease and then reassemble the faucet and tighten the packing nut.

Now, if you’ve done all that and the faucet still continues to leak, it’s possible the seat may be pitted. To fix this, remove the stem and smoothly grind the valve seat with a valve-seat dresser – a tool you will temporarily screw down into the faucet.

Stay tuned and I’ll talk about ball-type faucets.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Way to Stay Cool this Summer

So the intense heat of the summer will be here before we know it. What you should know is that you don’t have to spend a fortune to keep your home cool this summer. There are many ways to stay cool and yet cut your cooling bill nearly in half. All it takes is a few changes to your HVAC system and to your daily routine and you should be set.

IDEA NO. 1 – Install a programmable thermostat. Doing this will allow you to preset different temperatures for different times of the day. Set the AC to be off while you are gone and program it to kick on just before you get home. Your home will stay cool for you while you’re there and save you money by not running all the time. A programmable thermostat only costs about $30-$50 and should cut nearly 20% off your cooling bill.

IDEA NO. 2 – Take advantage of the natural cool times of the day. Usually in the early mornings and late evenings the temperature will drop. As soon as the tempertature drops at night, open the windows and use a window fan to bring the cool air into the house. As soon as the temperature starts to rise in the morning, shut the windows and shades and keep the doors closed. This should trap the cool temperatures inside.

IDEA NO. 3 – Install sunlocking shades or curtains. As much as 20% of summer heat enters your home from sunlight entering through windows. It’s the greenhouse effect. To prevent this “solar gain,” put up shades, blinds or darkening curtains. If you do, it should cut 20% off your cooling bill.

IDEA NO. 4 – Cook outdoors. Any appliance that generates heat, adds to your cooling bill. An oven, when baking, can raise the room temperature 10 degrees. If you can, invest in a great outdoor cooking unit where you can do most of your cooking during the summer. And any baking or anything that requires an oven, save for cooler hours of the day. It will cut 2 to 5% off your cooling bill.

Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Promoting Healthy Air at Home

It may sound funny, but have you ever given much thought to the air you breathe while you are at home? Obviously, living with second hand smoke can be an issue but there are other hazards to be concerned with as well. In a cold, wet place like the Northeast, you have probably seen your fair share of mold. Mold is a dangerous thing to have around as it can be unhealthy to inhale, especially for young children, elderly adults and people living with asthma.

It is important to first and foremost, keep your home well ventilated. Keep a steady flow of fresh air moving through your home. Install fans in the kitchen and bathrooms of your home and make sure to use them. Mold can grow on wood, paper, carpet, foods, and insulation. When excessive moisture accumulates in buildings or on building materials, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or unaddressed. It can come from plumbing leaks, rain or groundwater buildup. If you have any leaks or any excessive buildup of moisture, make sure to address those issues right away. Wet drywall needs to be replaced immediately or dried out using professional fans.

Any emergency plumbing issues that may come up, make sure to call us right away to prevent the buildup of unhealthy mold in your home. Mold can buildup fast and grow rapidly. You must keep it under control.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Protect Your Home Against Wintertime Plumbing Problems

So living in the Northeast, we know about plumbing problems in the wintertime. It’s old news to us. If you are planning on taking a trip sometime this winter, here is a little advice for preparing your home in case of a storm.

Pipes and radiators break if a single night power failure occurs and no one is there to remedy it, such as you being out of town. Your best bet is to turn off your heating system and shut off the water supply to your home from the source. Find the meter, which is usually in the basement of your home. Next, you should drain the entire system and leave all faucets open. Drain the toilet bowl tanks and add a couple cups of RV or marine anti-freeze into the bowl and the tank. You can find anti-freeze in the most general stores in either the sporting goods section or automotive section. You should also turn off and drain the hot water as well.

If you have any external plumbing, consider wrapping it in something to insulate it from the elements. Any garden hoses? Drain them and disconnect them. With a little preparation and the use of anti-freeze, your home should be good while you’re gone on your winter vacation. Of course if you come home and something is not working properly, it is best to call a plumbing professional right away.

Friday, January 14, 2011

Stopping a Flood Before it Destroys Your Home

It can be a scary thing when a pipe breaks and your home starts to flood. Immediately you might panic, as water starts gushing everywhere. You need to be prepared for when this happens. Especially now, during the winter, because before long any frozen pipes will begin to thaw. And if they have a crack in them, you’ll know soon enough what we mean by this. Sam Mechanical offers emergency plumbing repair services, however we want you to know what to do to stop the flood before we get there. What you should do right now, is take a moment to locate all the shut off valves in your home. That way when there is a leak, you can stop the water at it’s source before it destroys anything.

• Whole house shutoff:
For a home served by a well, the shutoff will be on the house side of the pressure tank. What you should also do is cut power to the tank so it doesn't detect a phantom pressure loss and burn out trying to compensate. If your home has metered water, look for the shutoff on either side of the water meter.

• Whole house hot water shutoff:
There should be a valve on your hot water heater to turn off the water. If there is not, call a professional to install one.

• Toilet shutoff:
There should be a ribbed oval handle under the toilet tank.

• Sink shutoffs:
These should be directly underneath the sink, with one for hot and one for cold water. In the case of any leaks, shut both of them off.

• Dishwasher shutoff:
This is usually located under the sink. Look for a valve leading from the dishwasher. If it is not there and you have a basement, look between the ceiling joists, just beneath the appliance.

• Clothes washer shutoff:
There should be valves where the house-supply lines meet the washer hoses.

As with any pipe leak or plumbing emergency, it is best to call a professional right away. At Sam Mechanical we have over 15 years experience and are here to come to your rescue immediately.

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Go Green or Go Home

No, we don’t mean that you should really go take a hike if you don’t support the green movement, we just want to stress the point that green, energy-efficient appliances, are the direction in which the home improvement industry is moving. New heating installation of an energy efficient product is a great place to start. You may even qualify for a federal tax credit for installing an energy efficient system into your home.

In 2010 you were able to take up to 30% of the cost, up to $1,500 max, as tax credits for an eligible heating and cooling system. However, you had to have these appliances installed by the end of last year, 2010, to qualify. If you didn’t get to this by the end of the year, the government has issued a suite of less-generous but still useful energy tax credits for heating and cooling systems and related energy-efficient improvements.

You can get a lifetime credit max of 10% of cost, up to $500 for all energy improvements combined. If you do install a new energy efficient heating and cooling system, make sure to save manufacturer certifications and receipts in case you need them for filing. You must also complete these renovations by December 31st, 2011. If you decide that you’d like to jump on the energy-efficient bandwagon, call us at Sam Mechanical for all your HVAC installation needs!